Published on April 28th, 2015 | by missrelena

Cosplay Corner: How to Applique

appliqueWelcome to “Cosplay Corner”! I have been cosplaying since 2005 at conventions, and LONG before that for Halloween and such. Since this is my first try at an article here, I’m going to cover something easy to explain – Applique. (a.k.a. adding a design to a garment)

  1. Pick a design that you’re adding, like the swirly leaf circle on Naruto’s jacket, the “S” to Superman’s chest, or something. I’ve used this to add all the hearts from my Queen of Hearts dress (from Alice in the Country of Hearts) and nearly all the decorations on my Empire Esther costume. (from Trinity Blood)
  2. Buy Wonder Under” or “Heat n’ Bond” You can find this with the interfacing in most fabric stores.       This stuff is my best friend when it comes to sewing! It turns machine-appliqueany fabric design into an iron-on! Hooray!!!!!! Make sure you have enough to cover your entire design.
  3. Draw/trace the design onto the paper side of the Wonder Under. Remember, this is going to make an iron-on — SO DRAW THE DESIGN REVERSED!!!!!       If you don’t reverse the design when you draw it, when you iron it onto the article of clothing, it will be BACKWARDS! (And all the other cosplayers will make fun of you!) Cut around the edges of the design. This does not have to be perfect, just close so you aren’t wasting all your Wonder Under.
  4. Iron the Wonder Under to the fabric that you are making the design out of. . . like the red of Superman’s “S”. MAKE SURE THE PAPTER SIDE OF THE WONDER UNDER IS THE SIDE YOUR IRON TOUCHES!!!! Otherwise you will make a HUGE mess all over your iron. Your iron should be on the warmest setting that the fabric can take.       Don’t make it too hot, or you will ruin the fabric (and that’s bMachineApplique10ad).
  5. Now cut the design out carefully, following all the edges as close as you possibly can.       Don’t peel the paper off the Wonder Under till the entire design is cut completely out.
  6. Peel off the paper from the Wonder Under. Now place the design on your garment where you want this to go. Be very careful where you place your design.       Wonder Under is permanent!       No second chances here! Iron the design (Wonder Under side down) to your garment. Go slow.       Let the iron sit on one place for 5-6 seconds before you move it to a new place. This keeps the design from wrinkling
  7. Go to your sewing machine and set it to the tightest Zig-Zag stitch that you can. I usually go with .5 or 1 if possible (that’s how close together the stitches are). The stitch width should never be smaller than 2.5 to 3 (that’s how wide the zig-zag is). Zig-zag carefully all around the design. The stitches should be half on and half off the design, thus securely attaching it to the garment. Yay, you’re done!


About the Author

(Sarah Hall) has been a Young Adult librarian in the Washington County Utah Library System since 2001. Besides having a great time working with the teens, she helps maintain the graphic novel section which has over 300 titles in the collection. (That's titles, not volumes!) Along with her esteemed co-worker, Natalie Daniel, and the manga-ka Svetlana Chmkova, she presented at the 2012 Public Library Association National Conference on the importance of Graphic Novels in libraries and in developing literacy in teens and tweens and has given workshops in various locations and conferences in Utah on graphic novels, cosplaying, and social media. She has also been cosplaying for conventions for the past eleven years and has won awards for her costumes from San Diego Comic Con, Anime Los Angeles, Anime Vegas, Tokyopop, and other spots around the West. She loves reading, sewing, watching anime with her family, and wearing crazy things in large crowds of people.

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